(Below- Handmade Italian Zullo Road Bike- large detail photos below on page)

AND PAINT YOUR SCOOTER TOO!

 

I've also painted two GUITARS with the very same kind of paint and method! Again- fantastic durable, beautiful results. See also

http://www.neilslade.com/guitars1.html

 

 

You can paint plastic body or metal body SCOOTERS using these same materials and methods as well- I did a RAD Scooter paint job using urethane for the backround as well as for the splatter effect as shown below. I used both red and green paint on the scooter, with different body parts contrasting for effect.

 

I don't recommend acoustic guitars (unless they are plywood electric/acoustic only), but urethane on plywood top electric hollow body and solid body guitars works fantastic, and will not have any effect on the sound-  but a GREAT effect on the LOOK!

 

Painting a bike can be ridiculously easy, or simply easy. When you paint your bike, the steps are essentially the same as for painting a car, and everything on this site and in the manual and DVD applies to bike painting exactly.

 

Lots of help on tips for FREE on this web site, so read through all of the pages.

 

If you follow the advice on this web page, or paint your bike with the assistance of the COMPLETE painting instructions that cover every single aspect of painting in the inexpensive manual or DVD (or both!) - your bike will come out as good as a factory paint job, and perhaps better-- because you will paint your bike exactly the color your love. AND you will have a much greater appreciation of the look of your bike because YOU DID IT YOURSELF.

 

There are some sites on the web that explain bike painting- but please note that this is the #1 site in the world for showing you the highest level of automotive grade quality painting-- and you can do the same for ANY BIKE -- including the most expensive bikes out there-- as shown below on the handmade Zullo frame.

 

Of course the simplest way to paint a bike is to go get a can of tractor enamel from the hardware store and brush it on. This is perfectly acceptable. However, you will see brush strokes, and the paint will not stick very well. This might be good for an old clunker, or perhaps you have a super bike and you want to hide the value of it.

 

Another way to paint your bike, is to strip off all of the bicycle components, sand it down with 220 and then 400 sand paper and get a can of Krylon or similar enamel, and spray.  This would be better than brushing on, and the paint will likely stick better. However, Krylon is not that durable, especially on a bike, and is certainly not as shiney as first class automotive paint.

 

Another alternative to bike painting is to powder coat the bike. This provides the most durable finish next to chrome plating, but it will be expensive, several hundred dollars if you hire someone to do it.

 

Probably the best method to paint a bike, that will cost very little, as little as $25 for the BEST QUALITY AUTOMOTIVE URETHANE, and still remain quite easy, and will provide an extremely durable finish is to follow the methods on this web site-- applying catalyzed automotive grade acrylic urethane- exactly the same paint all car manufactures put on cars.

 

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When you paint properly with catalyzed urethane the paint will stick on the bike forever (unless you crash and burn), and your paint will be extremely shiny and smooth.

 

You can easily repair any damage to the paint, and remove and polish any drips you may get. Other kinds of paint will not allow you  to remove drips, and you cannot sand or polish regular spray can enamal.

 

Bike tubing provides a little more difficulty than flat surfaces, but not a lot. You can finish sand the paint, and come up with an extremely smooth surface of extreme shine as shown in the photos  of the yellow Zullo as shown below in the detailed photos. The paint on these bikes is as smooth as glass, as good as factory, with no remaining drips or errors.

 

I prefer to not put decals on my bikes, because the paint alone LOOKS THAT GOOD that I don't want to detract from it.

 

You DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE OLD PAINT to do this method. What you have to do is to sand the old paint with 220 grade waterproof paper by hand. You can fill in any chips or imperfections with automotive buddy putty (but not BONDO. Rather use the catalyzed urethane filler I r cars, like Rage Gold). Another option to sanding is a paint adhesion promoter called BULLDOG. But it's expensive, and sanding works fine and doesn't take long.

 

You can use automotive primer on the raw exposed metal, or over the old paint as well, and sand for a completely smooth surface.  If you have previously rusted areas you MUST USE ETCHING PRIMER- otherwise the rust will return. Get this at your automotive paint supplier.

 

You can also just apply the paint, and not finish sand-- this will provide a smooth finish, as glossy as you can get, but may show a little bit of finish ripple-- the same as found on factory cars, but perhaps a tiny bit more- since round tubing makes a completely flat surface harder to achieve without any finish sanding at all

 

All the complete and easy to follow instructions far beyond what is covered for free on this whole car painting site, including dent and chip repair is in, the download or physical manual and DVD.

 

 

Here are lots of new photos, including big details on the latest Zullo paint project, and my scooter-- make sure and  GO ALL THE WAY DOWN THE PAGE FOR BIG DETAIL PHOTOS.  HAVE FUN!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the bike in progress along with a guitar I am painting the same color.

 

 

 

TWO GIGANTIC PHOTOS BELOW